[{"content":"","date":"6 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/eating/","section":"Eating","summary":"","title":"Eating","type":"eating"},{"content":"","date":"6 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/","section":"Perambulare","summary":"","title":"Perambulare","type":"page"},{"content":" Eating in Reykjavík is a thrill. Every visit brings me new restaurants to experience, and wonderful new chefs and dishes. Below are some of my favorites. These places range from the sublime (and Michelin-starred) to the lowly pylsa—the Icelandic hot dog. There\u0026rsquo;s something for everyone here. Dig in.\nPylsa at Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur Scallops at Skál Rye bread at Óx Meatballs at Vínstukan Lava cake at Sweet Aurora Smoked puffin at Þrír Frakkar Croissant at 280 Bakarí Previous Next It\u0026rsquo;s hard to know where to draw the lines when trying to direct you to good food and drink in Reykjavík. I\u0026rsquo;ve landed on the type of eating — speacial night out, fine dining, something more casual, bakeries, and bars. You should read the notes section for important info.\nSpecial Occasion # These are the big (weirdly, often small in size) restaurants. The ones where the meal is an experience, not just dinner. The prices are closer to what you might pay for an exclusive concert or really good seats for a top-tier sports club. It\u0026rsquo;s chefs at the top of their game. A indicates a Michelin-starred restaurant.\nÓx. The standard by which many top notch restaurants should be judged. A 17-seat restaurant coupled with a speakeasy bar (see below) serving up a 20+ course experience. Icelandic ingredients, a really great story, and an evening you won\u0026rsquo;t forget. Reservations required, preferably a couple months out. They do a lunch seating on some Saturdays that\u0026rsquo;s sometimes easier to get into.\nDill. The original Michelin-starred Icelandic restaurant. Still excellent, still full, and still surprising. New-Nordic cuisine with a focus on Icelandic ingredients.\nOn The List These restaurants are on my list, but I haven\u0026rsquo;t gotten to them yet.\nMoss: Michelin-starred at the Blue Lagoon.\n➼ Sól: in a greenhouse in Hafnarfjörður\nEvenings Out # These restaurants are nicer evening out dinners. For the most part, I\u0026rsquo;ve included a huge range of places here — some have tasting menus that will make them as expensive as special occasion places, and some are very casual. What they have in common is a full sit-down experience and great food!\n➼ Skál. One of my favorite places to eat in Iceland. A short, well curated menu with a matching cocktail program. Cosy space with a nice bar. Easy enough for a mid-week lunch, but reservations required for dinner. Don\u0026rsquo;t miss: the scallops, the cod wings (if they have them on), or the fermented potatoes.\n➼ Hosiló. A creative menu that\u0026rsquo;s ever changing (new menu every Thursday, and almost no dish gets repeated). There\u0026rsquo;s usually just a handful of items on the menu, which makes it quite fun to \u0026ldquo;run the menu\u0026rdquo; if you go with more than two people. Portions are usually big enough to share. Reservations highly recommended. They don\u0026rsquo;t have a website, but I\u0026rsquo;ve linked to their Instagram where they post their menus weekly.\n➼ Matur og Drykkur. “Food and Drink” in Icelandic. Named after the cookbook of traditional Icelandic fare. They do that, but elevated to modern tastes. They recently moved into a new space and I\u0026rsquo;m excited to try it out again.\n➼ Vínstúkan Tíu Sopar. What started off as fantastic wine bar with very good small plates has evolved to a dining destination all by itself. Fantastic food that\u0026rsquo;s good for sharing, with whimsical plating. Don\u0026rsquo;t miss: any fish in a tin, the meatballs.\n➼ Fiskmarkaðurinn. “Fish market” is an Asian-inspired fish-centric restaurant. They\u0026rsquo;ve been refining the restaurant and it\u0026rsquo;s my favorite place to get sushi or just a nice fish dinner. The tasting menu is usually good value for money, but it does seem to take a while to be served.\n➼ Grillmarkaðurinn. “Grill market”, formerly part of the same group as Fiskmarkaðurinn, but I believe the chefs have gone their separate ways. Best of Icelandic meats. The tasting menu is outstanding and a pretty good deal. Dessert is a lot, and you should save room for it!\n➼ Lóla. Fantastic, creative Italian food. Don\u0026rsquo;t miss: the focaccia with one of the spreads, whatever the ravioli is that month, and the pistachio tiramisu. Reservations recommended.\n➼ Austur-Indíafjelagið. Top notch Indian. Good tasting menu with big portions in a lovely space.\n➼ Þrír Frakkar. Traditional, old fashioned Icelandic food. Plokkfiskur and puffin and everything in between. The space is tight, so make sure to get a reservation, especially for a weekend night.\n➼ Sjávargrillið. \u0026ldquo;Seafood grill\u0026rdquo;. An old favorite with a menu of mostly grilled and pan-fried fish, haven’t had one bad thing here.\n➼ Sumac. Billed as small plates Lebanese-Moroccan, the food is good and the plates are not small. Order in batches lest you over-order. Menu changes, but you won’t go wrong with lamb or pork, and the seafood is awesome. From the chef behind Óx. Reservations required.\n➼ Monkeys. Peruvian-Icelandic-Japanese-ish. Really good food in a lovely environment. Leave room for the dessert tower!\nOn The List ➼ Sel. By the same team behind Óx, so I know it\u0026rsquo;s going to be good. I already have a reservation for mid-July.\nCasual # These restaurants run the gamut from Middle Eastern take out food to pizza and burgers. There\u0026rsquo;s something for everyone here.\n➼ Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. Literally means \u0026ldquo;town’s best hot dog\u0026rdquo;. They’re not kidding. This is my favorite hot dog in the world. Must visit, especially late night. Get it with everything. Tip: go at off hours, especially late night, late lunch, or late breakfast. Go to the original on Tryggvagata.\n➼ Ramen Momo. Some great, subtle ramen happening here. The original location is tiny, but they\u0026rsquo;ve now got a larger space on Bankastræti. Locations serve different menus, and worth visiting both if you\u0026rsquo;re in Reykjavík for an extended (or multiple) trip!\n➼ La Poblana. The best tacos in Iceland, I think. They moved from a little take out space to a sit down restaurant, and they\u0026rsquo;re always busy.\n➼ Sæta Svínið. Gastropub with good, giant portions of hearty food.\n➼ Kaffi Vest. Neighborhood cafe with good food.\n➼ Laundromat Cafe. A quirky Danish chain of casual diner food. WiFi password is “iloveyou”. Good breakfast. Yes, there\u0026rsquo;s a laundromat downstairs.\n➼ Sægreifinn. \u0026ldquo;The sea baron\u0026rdquo;. Excellent seafood and langoustine soup. Grilled seafood. They also serve hákarl, the pungent fermented shark.\n➼ Cafe Loki. “Like my grandma made” (direct quote from a friend) Icelandic food. It’s right near Hallgrímskirkja, so a lot of people think it’s a tourist trap. It is not. Good home-style cooking, diner style. Don\u0026rsquo;t miss: the rye bread ice cream.\n➼ Dr Bao. Excellent bao near the harbor. Don\u0026rsquo;t miss: the lamb bao.\n➼ Fish and Chips Vagninn. In Grandi. Excellent fish and chips.\nPizza Joints # There\u0026rsquo;s a lot of them, these are the ones I\u0026rsquo;ve been to in roughly the order I like:\n➼ Pizza Popolare. At Pósthús Matholl.\n➼ Napoli. Take out only.\n➼ Bakabaka. Bakery/breakfast spot in the mornings.\n➼ Flatey. Several locations, go to the one at Grandi for the best experience.\nOn The List ➼ Pizza 107.\n➼ Padre Pizza.\n➼ Pizza Port. A take-out wagon.\nBurgers # ➼ 2 Guys. Good burgers, good beer, darts.\n➼ Le Kock. Good burgers, fried chicken, and cocktails, in the Exeter Hotel.\n➼ Hagavagninn. Next to Vesturbæjarlaug, perfect for an after-swim meal.\n➼ Hamborgarbúllan. Excellent burger. Several locations, including Copenhagen and London.\nMiddle Eastern # ➼ Arabian Taste. Great Syrian take out. Top tip: get take out from here to eat across the street at Microbar.\n➼ Shawarma \u0026amp; Falafel. Good falafel and other Palestinian and Arabic fare. Run by chef Samer, no relation!\n➼ Chickpea. Delicious Middle Eastern inspired vegan food.\n➼ Lamb Street Food. Middle Eastern inspired wraps.\nBakeries \u0026amp; Sweets # Iceland loves a bakery, especially croissants and snúður — cinnamon rolls. Here\u0026rsquo;s my favorites for baked goods and sweet treats.\n➼ Sweet Aurora. Lovely French patisserie with some of the best desserts around.\n➼ 280 Bakarí. New on the scene and already one of the best in town. Their savory pies are excellent, and they have probably the best croissants in town. Skál, who are next door, use their bread.\n➼ Hygge. Excellent breakfasts and sandwiches. Two locations.\n➼ Brauð og Co. Good baked goods, excellent bread. I often buy half loaves of their Lord Sandwich and the tuna salad. They\u0026rsquo;ve got the viral snúður, and while it\u0026rsquo;s too sweet for me, you should try it.\n➼ Sandholt. Great breakfast spot if your stomach can last long enough for the line to thin. Very good pastries, desserts, and chocolates.\n➼ Valdís: Good ice cream. Two locations, downtown and Grandi. If you’re adventuresome and/or a goth, get the licorice. A gray colored bit of delicious refreshment.\n➼ Gaeta Gelato: Good Italian gelato, including lots of non-dairy options. Several locations.\nI don\u0026rsquo;t really drink hot liquids and definitely not coffee or tea. If I were to do so, I\u0026rsquo;d wind up at Kaffi Ó-le, Reykjavík Roasters (I like their hot chocolate), Te og Kaffi, or Katktus.\nBars # I used to drink a lot of beer and I still enjoy it tremendously, but I am more of a cocktail guy these days. I still don\u0026rsquo;t like wine (but I\u0026rsquo;m including a wine place).\n➼ Amma Don. My favorite experience for fancy cocktails. It\u0026rsquo;s a speakeasy, so you gotta know where it is and when it opens. Buzz down, if they have space, they\u0026rsquo;ll let you into a magical time machine: the bar is in a retro 1970s living room (chef\u0026rsquo;s grandmother\u0026rsquo;s to be exact). Pick from the ever-changing menu or just let your bartender make you something!\n➼ Skúli. Reykjavík\u0026rsquo;s premier beer bar. Lots of locals on tap, in bottles, and cans. Probably the largest selection of Belgian beers. Nice seating area, and a lovely outdoor area for the five bongó days of the year!\n➼ Microbar. Beers from Gæðingur brewery mostly, but a fun atmosphere and you\u0026rsquo;ll make friends for life here.\n➼ Vínstúkan Tíu Sopar. Excellent wine bar, but they keep a few decent beers stocked for me. You can have one, too.\n➼ Jungle. Warm weather cocktails in a lush green environment. Can be pretty loud. The same team runs the next two spots.\n➼ Daisy. Quieter, subterranean cocktail bar.\n➼ Bingo. Fun, lively, bottled cocktails and bottle beers.\n➼ Veður. The weather bar. Good cocktails, decent taps, lovely company.\n➼ Kaldi. A gin bar with good local beers, including their own.\n➼ Gilligogg. Just a lovely space to drink in.\nOutside Reykjavík # These places are outside the main downtown area.\n➼ The Restaurant at Hotel Húsafell. European and Japanese techniques married perfectly to Icelandic ingredients. Creative, hyperlocal, and the dining room has a beautiful view.\nOn The List ➼ Tjorhúsið. Everyone tells me I must eat here.\n➼ North. From the same chef as Dill.\nSome Notes # A couple of notes to end on.\nTipping isn\u0026rsquo;t a thing in Iceland. Restaurant and bar staff are paid well, and no check will show a tip line. Think of it this way: the tip you leave in your home country is already accounted for in the cost of your meal (which should make the menu prices seem more reasonable). That said, no one will be upset if you left a tip.\nA lot of restaurants will have you pay at the counter. This is more prevalent for casual places. If you\u0026rsquo;re done eating and they\u0026rsquo;ve cleared your plates but haven\u0026rsquo;t asked if you want the check, you should take that as a sign to pay at the counter.\nWherever possible, I’ve linked to restaurant’s English websites. Some restaurants don’t have websites. Most restaurants are on Dineout for reservations.\nLastly: This is my list. I’m a frequent visitor to Iceland, and I love my food and drink. I don\u0026rsquo;t put restaurants on here because I\u0026rsquo;m paid or asked to do so. I do it because I\u0026rsquo;ve been and enjoyed them, or because I want to go and have heard good things. I am friends with more than one restaurateur, bar manager, staffer, or owner. I try to keep this page updated between trips, but … uh, life.\nFirst published in August 2018. Migrated to a new site and platform in July 2026.\n","date":"6 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/eating/reykjavik/","section":"Eating","summary":"A list of places Samer likes to eat and drink at in Reykjavík, including Óx, Skál, BBP, and many more.","title":"Reykjavík","type":"eating"},{"content":" Here\u0026rsquo;s some ways to get in touch:\nBluesky Mastodon Flickr Instagram Email\n","date":"6 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/contact/","section":"Perambulare","summary":"","title":"Contact","type":"page"},{"content":"Hi, and welcome to my umpteenth site on the Internet.\nMy name is Samer, and I\u0026rsquo;ve been chronically online since 1988. I\u0026rsquo;ve had many versions of a personal website over the years — documenting my early travels, blogging, showing off photos, and more. This is the third iteration of Perambulare.\nPERAMBULARE This is a Latin word meaning \u0026ldquo;to walk all over\u0026rdquo; or \u0026ldquo;to wander\u0026rdquo;. That\u0026rsquo;s the spirit of this website — taking a stroll all over the place.\nI love Iceland, and especially Reykjavík. It\u0026rsquo;s my happy place, and I try and spend as much time as I can there, often a month or two in the summer. You\u0026rsquo;ll see a lot of pictures from there in my photography section.\nI also love great food and drink, and I have a dining guide for Reykjavík which gets shared out by the Icelandic Embassy in the USA. I\u0026rsquo;ll have a few more guides in the future for at least DC and London, and you\u0026rsquo;ll find those in the eating section. I\u0026rsquo;ll also share some recipes I\u0026rsquo;ve developed (mostly Lebanese food) in the cooking section.\nI plan to do some writing. I used to blog fairly regularly, but stopped a million years ago when short-form social media took over. I was on Twitter, and have since moved to Bluesky and Mastodon.\nSome of you might have noticed that the .is domain is particularly suited to URLs that are of the type \u0026ldquo;samer is eating reykjavik\u0026rdquo;, and you\u0026rsquo;re correct to judge me. I\u0026rsquo;m sorry, and I\u0026rsquo;m sure it\u0026rsquo;ll happen again.\nIf you enjoy this site, feel free to reach out and say hello. If not, well, no need!\n","date":"6 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/about/","section":"Perambulare","summary":"","title":"About","type":"page"},{"content":"","date":"4 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/photographing/","section":"Photographing","summary":"","title":"Photographing","type":"photographing"},{"content":"Vestmannaeyjar is magical in the rain. September 2025.\n","date":"4 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/photographing/vestmannaeyjar/","section":"Photographing","summary":"","title":"Vestmannaeyjar","type":"photographing"},{"content":"","date":"3 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/cooking/","section":"Cooking","summary":"","title":"Cooking","type":"cooking"},{"content":"Toum is a Lebanese garlic sauce. It can be pretty potent depending on your processing of the garlic. It\u0026rsquo;s great on all sorts of things, though traditionally it\u0026rsquo;s used with chicken (especially shawarma) and as a dip for fries.\nThis recipe is pretty simple and quick, but you\u0026rsquo;re going to need an immersion blender and a scale.\nI\u0026rsquo;m giving you a ratio, which should make it easy to to scale it as much as you want, but there is a minimum you can make (about 50g of garlic) depending on how deep your immersion blender\u0026rsquo;s bowl is.\nThe ratio is 1:2:4 lemon juice:garlic cloves:oil. I said it was simple!\nExample, for a yield of about 250 ml (or roughly a cup container):\nIngredients # 25g lemon juice 50g peeled garlic, germ and stem end discarded (see note on prep) 100g neutral oil (I like sunflower, canola is fine) (see note on olive oil) salt (to taste, good rule of thumb is about 1g per 100g of oil) optional citric acid Method # We\u0026rsquo;ll be using Kenji López-Alt\u0026rsquo;s mayonnaise method to make the toum.\nFor a milder toum: place everything except citric acid into a container just wider than the head of your immersion blender. Use the blender head to push straight down, then turn it on while pushing down slowly. The toum should come together quickly, and you can tilt the head to pull in any remaining oil. Process until it\u0026rsquo;s a nice smooth cloud of a spread.\nFor a stronger toum: place the garlic and salt in the container and blend for a couple of seconds. Let sit for 30 seconds (or longer — the longer it sits, the more intense it becomes). Add lemon juice and oil, then process as above.\nThis will keep for a week or so in an air tight container in the fridge.\nPrep # You can use regular or elephant garlic, peeled or unpeeled. I\u0026rsquo;d recommend against frozen, but it\u0026rsquo;ll do in a pinch.\nIf the garlic is relatively fresh, you can use it as is. But if the stem end is really woody, or it has started to germinate, you should remove the end and the germ. The germ adds a bitterness to your finished toum. Just slice each clove in half and remove the green bits. I said this recipe was easy, but it can still be tedious!\nStrength # The reason for the difference in strength is that garlic doesn\u0026rsquo;t produce the strongest burn if cut while in an acid. So pre-processing the garlic before adding the lemon gives a stronger garlic bite. This is especially great with charcoal/wood-fired foods.\nOil # Don\u0026rsquo;t use olive oil as your main oil, it will turn a little bitter from the processing. If you want the flavor of olive oil, leave out a portion of your neutral oil and mix in the oilve oil at the end with a whisk.\nYou can also use flavored oils here. I make a fresh garlic oil using the green parts of fresh garlic bulbs, and it works great in this application.\n","date":"3 July 2026","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/cooking/toum/","section":"Cooking","summary":"","title":"Toum","type":"cooking"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/authors/","section":"Authors","summary":"","title":"Authors","type":"authors"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/categories/","section":"Categories","summary":"","title":"Categories","type":"categories"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/series/","section":"Series","summary":"","title":"Series","type":"series"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/tags/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Tags","type":"tags"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/writing/","section":"Writing","summary":"","title":"Writing","type":"writing"}]